phreshjive

Simplified those two components with this: Works very well and less clutter.

So solution for now is to use a Monoprice HDMI Splitter (Part # 108204) to handle the HDCP. Sent the following email to Denon that outlines all the steps I took come to a workaround. Tested using my receiver and the latest iteration purchased for diagnostic purposes at a local retailer. The Corsair H100 should be arriving tomorrow. Can't wait to finish off the build. The Email to Denon: - Purchased both a Denon AVR-1913 and AVRS900W receivers and updated to latest firmware - Purchased a Analogix SlimPort SP1004 adapter, latest device for SlimPort standard by Analogix, list of supported devices available here: http://www.slimportconnect.com/slimport-supported-devices/ - Purchased a Google (LG) Nexus 5 phone, a supported device of the SlimPort standard, running the latest publicly available version of Android 4.4.4 - Purchased a Monoprice 25ft 22AWG CL2 High Speed HDMI Cable (Part # 103990) - Purchased a Monoprice Mini HDMI Splitter with 3D Support (Part # 108204) - Purchased a Monoprice HDMI Active Equalizer Extender Repeater (Part # 2849) DIAGNOSTIC: - Both the Denon AVR-1913 and AVRS900W cannot output video when the SlimPort device is connected using a 25ft 22AWG HDMI cable - Tested same 25ft HDMI cable connected directly to an input of my Epson 8350 projector with same SlimPort adapter with no connectivity issue - Tested same 25ft HDMI cable connected directly to an LCD TV and the SlimPort adapter with no connectivity issue - Tested same SlimPort adapter connected with a shorter length (3 ft) HDMI cable to both Denon receivers with no connectivity issue - Tested using the 25ft HDMI cable and the Repeater using the SlimPort adapter to both receivers with no signal - Tested using the 25ft HDMI cable plugged into one of the outputs of the HDMI Splitter with the SlimPort plugged into the input to the Denon receivers with no connectivity issues CONCLUSION: The Monoprice HDMI Splitter is handling HDCP and works over the 25ft cable run. An issue therefore exists in present Denon firmware that cannot read the HDCP signal from the SlimPort device when run directly over the 25ft cable. Discussion with Analogix stated that the SP1004 device is compatible with a passive 25ft HDMI cable. Kindly resolve in a firmware revision for both models. UPDATE: So here is the image of how everything needs to be connected in order to function the way I envisioned: Having one 25ft HDMI cable run in-wall / baseboard and having an HDMI switcher on the other side of the room to alternate between my Surface Pro 3 and Nexus 5: - Blue HDMI from Input of Kinivo switch to SlimPort to MicroUSB Adapter - White HDMI Monoprice MiniDisplayPort to HDMI in Input of Kinivo - Green HDMI from Output of Kinivo switch to Input of Monoprice 1x2 HDMI Splitter - Black 25 ft HDMI from Output1 of Splitter to Receiver FUN STUFF!

Once signal from my Slimport adapter goes over a 25ft HDMI cable into the Denon, signal loss occurs regardless of what input selected on Denon, updated to latest firmware. No issue if 25ft is connected directly to projector input. Awaiting delivery of an HDMI Active Equalizer Extender Repeater from Monoprice based on feedback received on AVSForum. Ended up ordering a Corsair H100 since tubing was smaller in diameter. Will attempt mount of the radiator on exterior of case by feeding it through the slot where the motherboard plate used to go and use the Noctua fans I have in their existing location. Would hopefully alleviate issue of having to cut top of case for airflow to CPU. Will also be bumping up the main SSD drive. Finding 128gb tight to manage taking into account other VMs I'm thinking of running. Will probably just wait until Black Friday.

Should have just gone with the memory I listed in the first place. All of my missteps weren't listed in my thread. They included ordering memory off of eBay and learning the same lesson you did in the end never having dealt with ECC memory and its variants. Even called Crucial to confirm due to memory manufactures' tomfoolery with part numbers. As an aside, you gotta love this ASRock motherboard. It's perfect for this project.

Walls are both gypsum board plaster and sheet rock; thick as anything. A 1962 build is not conducive to running a modern setup and as much as I would like to run conduits for future runs, I'm stuck fishing Plenum Cat6 and other cables through a crown molding to hopefully future proof using Balums. Also to be noted, I received a response from Analogix. The SP1004 supports passive cables up to 25 ft. Based on that info, I decided to connect the 25 ft 22AWG cable to the SP1004 and then to an LCD TV. It works. Now at least I can close up and finish off this build. As an aside, I also ordered a Corsair H100i to see what sort of maneuverability I can get in this case instead of having to cut out part of the top of the case. Then comes the fun part of diagnosing what is causing the issue / what settings to change around in either the Denon AVR-1913 or the Epson 8350. Ughhh!

garycase: Ordering the Redmere today from Monoprice as even the latest and greatest SP1004 from Analogix still doesn't function over the 25 ft 22AWG run. Meanwhile the Mini DisplayPort to HDMI for the Surface Pro 3 does. Reached out to Analogix via email and haven't heard back. If the Redmere route doesn't work, I'll give up on the SlimPort aspect of the project, close up, then finish off this build. Annoyed though at this point. Amazed that I couldn't find a single other person who wanted to do same. Granted running a virtualized HTPC and probably at the upper echelon of geekiness on this front... Oh well.

Alright, a quick update: So the 22AWG cable coupled with the powered HDMI switch was the fix at least for the Mini DisplayPort issue - now I have a visual on the projector from the Surface Pro 3. The SlimPort for the Nexus 5 still didn't work. I did some research and found out that Analogix is the company behind SlimPort. Their SP1003 variant was the model of choice. They recently though released an updated model, the SP1004. I am the guinea pig on Amazon.com and will be the first reviewer once I receive it using one day shipping tomorrow. Had initially setup everything wirelessly using Miracast (RTV3000) for the SP3 (and technically N5) and with a Chromecast (for the N5) but despise the lag from both. Once this hurdle is hopefully over, will finish off renovation, though with greater difficulty as am running that 22AWG HDMI under a baseboard and liked the size of the non-functional 26AWG better from a logistical perspective, complete this build and post the pics!.

Hey Gary: Had initially purchased 1) Cable Matters Micro USB SlimPort (MyDP) to HDMI 6 Foot Cable with 6 Foot USB Charging Cable 2) Monoprice Mini DisplayPort to HDMI cable 3) Panlong HDMI switch 4) Monoprice 25ft 26AWG cable. The receiver is a Denon AVR-1913 receiver. Both SlimPort and Mini DisplayPort connected to the Panlong and it didn't work. Connected directly to the receiver worked/works just fine. Then thought it was the quality of the passive switch so returned it and got the Sewell Direct one which produced the same result. I then thought that it must need to be active, returned the Sewell and went with an active Kinivo one. Same result. I then figured maybe it was the 26AWG cable, swapped (as in initiated yet another return) for the 22AWG one, the exact one I am running from the receiver to the projector to reach the same result. Mind numbing first world problem.

Should add that both 25ft cables work flawlessly with a Blu-ray drive attached. With the other two, not so much.

FML! Still sitting open and haven't closed her up yet as am renovating a room in my house where an Epson 8350 projector is now ceiling mounted along with this build. I've run into a snag related to the home theater and intend on posting today on AVSForums where hopefully someone can help me out - not related to this build (which still is working flawlessly) but running a 25 ft Monoprice 22AWG HDMI from one side of the room with the AV receiver to the other. On the opposite side of the receiver, have a powered HDMI switch along with a Slimport to HDMI connector for my Nexus 5 and a Mini DisplayPort to HDMI connector for my Surface Pro 3. I've now returned 3 items in a short period of time (2 x non-powered HDMI switches, 1 x 26AWG 25ft cable) on my Amazon Prime sub that triggered a return warning email - and all over it not working. Thought at first it was because it was a non-powered HDMI switch, then thought it might the cable. Now lamenting over whether the Balum HDMI route will solve my issue until someone confirms on AVSForums, not ordering anything else. Using the same 22AWG HDMI cable to the projector and it works perfectly. Both the Slimport and MiniDisplayPort work fine when connected directly to receiver. Did a ton of research and can't find any info anywhere. Ask me why I wanted the ability of being able to connect my SP3 and N5 when I have a VM running 8.1 and I couldn't tell you at this point. Part of reasoning was hated the lag from Chromecast (N5/Pandora) and the RTV3000 (N5/SP3) that were bought in case I wanted to play an emulator. But after all this hassle of trying to get it to work, I'll be damned if it doesn't. seigneur78: I 100% am planning on doing so. Just have to solve said issue / obsession so I can complete the reno, and easily complete this build. Ice_Black: I can only say this motherboard is vetted for VMWare. Tried two cards that I researched as functional and both worked. Wanted the fanless variant for noise (or lack thereof) purposes. doublebubble: 1) Wouldn't do that 2) That is my plan - bought one of these: though toaster-style case material isn't magnetic. Chosen CPU fan clears perfectly but my plan is to cutout and place Silverstone Tek over top 3) Thought of it but it really is a tight fit.

Sorry for the late reply - never turns on.

Been busy with other things, but wanted to update: the Logitech Cordless MediaBoard Pro Bluetooth Keyboard works great with my chosen Bluetooth dongle and the VM in ESXI.

Below is the relevant portion that I received as a response from ASRock: AC Power 230 Volt Power consumption (Unit: Watts) S0(Enter OS) 51.4 Full Loading(Run Prime95) 112 S1(Monitor Auto Off) n/a S3(Sleep mode) <5Watt n/a S4(Hibernate) 3.87 S5(Shutdown) 3.74 Deep S5(Shut down) 0.36 Test Config (AC Power 230 Volt) Model:E3C224D4I-12S R1.00 CPU: 1285V3-QEEK CPU fan:INTEL BOX RAM: KingSton-ECC-4G-1600 VGA:On board HDD: Seagate 250G ODD: Pioneer-DVD PSU:Detla 850W BIOS version:L0.02 OS:Win7 For the power consumption difference between E3C224D4I-14S and Intel DQ77KB motherboard + SuperMicro AOC-SASLP-MV8 PCI Controller. The main difference between these two boards is, E3C224D4I-14 has a BMC and LSI2308 controller on board, and LSI 2308 consumes more power than Marvell chipset does. We estimated that E3C224D4I-14S will have 10+ W more than the Intel DQ77KB motherboard + SuperMicro AOC-SASLP-MV8 PCI Controller Despite the power consumption, am still very happy. Compatibility with ESXI and VGA passthrough is no small feat for anyone whose dabbled in virtualization. Been busy with work and haven't had the time to finish it off. Hopefully next weekend I'll have some free time.

Quick update: So I also bought 3M Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener 250/250 from Amazon to mount the SSDs next to where the PSU will be housed. Love the stuff. For those who aren't in the know, it's the same fastening material that comes with a E-ZPass (contactless payment system module mounted generally on windshields used on toll roads in the US). Much improved over Velcro. Also am now testing an Asus HD 6450. Had to though adjust memory up to 8GB on the VM (after testing some 1080P MKVs) and the scaling in the AMD Catalyst control panel. Happier with it as it is passive, is smaller in size, has a low profile bracket, and is better suited for just outputting HD video. So far, no issues. Insignificant difference in power consumption compared with previous graphics card. BIOS update might be needed to fix the issue. Conversation with William at ASRock resulted in him forwarding problem to their engineering team. I'll update the thread once I hear back. Also just ordered a Logitech Cordless MediaBoard Pro Bluetooth Keyboard. Had initially bought a Logitech K400r that'll be returned as I found out that passing HID USB devices to VMs is difficult and/or impossible. This coupled with a Kinivo BTD-400 Bluetooth module should work for the Windows 8.1 Plex Home Theatre VM for the times I want a physical keyboard. For the rest of the time, I also installed Unified Remote on the VM and my smartphone. Planning on using the Bluetooth module to pair a PS3 Controller for the rare times I want to switch out of Plex Home Theatre and use an emulator to kick back and play some classics. System functions exactly as I want with the exception of the power consumption. Realized I am possibly missing an extension cable for Molex and a standoff as I misplaced one of them. Also will buy some M3 screws with nylon washers to slightly lower the height of the CPU cooler before finalizing the build and posting updated photos. Getting closer to being done! A labor of love.

Alright, now at stage of build where rear panel needs to be 3D scanned. Can anyone offer assistance? Edit: Figured out a way to modify the rear panel without need for 3D scanning. Ordered the following parts: NZXT CB-FRPAN SET 300mm Individually Sleeved Front Panel Connections Premium Cable (Black) PCI-E PCI Express 16X Riser Card Extender Flex Flexible Extension Cable for 1U 2U Small Case Silverstone Tek 140mm Ultra Fine Fan Filter with Magnet Cooling FF143B (Black) ABS Sheet 0.60" 12 x 12 Idea is to a) Place motherboard using standoffs I previously ordered b) Cut hole in cover for CPU cooler ventilation and place the magnetic fan cooler over it c) Extend the front panel connectors using the cables (already have a 24 pin individually sleeved extender) d) Cut rear panel up / cut equivalent sized PVC piece with placeholder for MB shield / hotglue into place e) Repeat processs for PSU hole Should receive all parts by Wednesday and will try to do the work over the weekend. Edit #2: Also just purchased a Asus Radeon HD6450 to test out its passthrough capabilities as I would prefer a lower TDP considering all other chosen parts are power misers. Edit #3: Tried system without existing graphics card plugged in with no change in W on Killawatt. BIOS set for energy conservation. Perhaps a setting somewhere. At this point, very happy everything is working smoothly though this power issue irks me.