garycase

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garycase last won the day on March 8 2017

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About garycase

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  1. Perhaps even a bit of overkill in that regard ... I'd also do a bit of measuring and buy some shorter cables.
  2. I tend to agree that drives can last a VERY long time if they don't have any infant mortality issues. The vast majority of drives I replace aren't due to drive failure -- it's to bump up the capacity or replace them with SSDs. I've got a boxful of spare drives (a few dozen) that all test perfectly, but are simply smaller than I'm ever likely to use.
  3. User Share Copy Bug

    The "absolutely paranoid and don't want to take ANY chance on losing data" approach to this is to be CERTAIN that the data you plan to move around is BACKED UP on another system But as already noted, as long as you understand how to avoid the issue there shouldn't be any problem with your copies. If you have ANY doubt that you're doing it right; copy ONE file first (being certain you have a backup of that file on another system) ... and confirm that all worked well.
  4. My SuperMicro Build

    Looking good => amazing what nearly tripling your airflow (38CFM -> 110CFM = 2.89) does for keeping things cool
  5. My SuperMicro Build

    I've looked at a few E-ATX boards over the years; but have always shied away when actually buying simply because of the limits it places on what cases I could use. But if you're building a dual-CPU system you really need to go with E-ATX simply because of the extra space you need to accommodate the CPU's and the other "stuff" you'll want on the board (plenty of memory slots; expansion slots; etc.). I'm not sure just what your issue is, but I don't think it's because the board is E-ATX
  6. My SuperMicro Build

    I would really think your current heatsinks should be okay -- but it IS true that the larger fans you referenced have a LOT more airflow than the ones on your current heatsink -- 110CFM vs 38CFM. Moving that much more air would certainly provide better cooling. But I really think re-mounting the heatsinks might be all you need to do [or course if you switch heatsinks you'll be doing that for sure ] Adding the middle row of fans may also provide a big improvement -- clearly it will add a lot more airflow. As I noted earlier, be sure to check the CFM rating for all of your fans and see just how much air they should be moving -- if you're using low-rpm fans that only move ~40CFM that may be the primary issue.
  7. Turbo write

    There's no reason you couldn't do that; but why? Turbo-write is generally used to get the quickest possible writes directly to the array, so your data is immediately fault-tolerant and doesn't have to go through the cache. Since you're caching all your writes, then the amount of time it takes to do the actual writes to the array is "hidden" from you anyway, since from the user's perspective that data has already been written to the array. In most cases, those writes are also automatic ... that's the whole idea of the mover script. ... nevertheless, you can simply turn on turbo-write; initiate the mover; and then later just turn off turbo-write.
  8. My SuperMicro Build

    I'm surprised you're having heat issues with the CPU's in particular => dual fans on those Noctua heatsinks should provide PLENTY of cooling for your CPU's. According to Noctua's dissipation chart, the heatsinks you have, when used with a 2011 mount, should be able to dissipate 140w of heat from the CPUs ... and since your CPU's only have an 85W TDP that should be PLENTY -- I'm surprised you can get them to thermally throttle unless you're either significantly over-clocking them (seems unlikely); or there's an issue with the thermal compound not providing a good bond between the CPU and heatsink. I'd remove the heatsinks; thoroughly clean both the CPU and the heatsink [use Artic's ArctiClean kit: https://www.amazon.com/ArctiClean-Thermal-Compound-Remover-Purifier/dp/B001JYQ9TM/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_23_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KTYAKS51HYQCT94RK4BH ]; and then reapply some good thermal compound [e.g. Arctic Silver] and remount the heatsinks. How are your drive temps? Three 120rpm fans should provide adequate cooling for the drive cages IF the fans have adequate static pressure and move a reasonable amount of air. There's a big big difference between a low-noise fan that's only moving 40CFM, a moderate speed fan that moves 80+ CFM; and a server-grade high-rpm (= noisy) fan that can move 120 - 150 CFM (e.g. Delta fans that run at 2900-3900 rpm). I'd want fans that move at least 80CFM. I can't tell from your picture just how well ventilated the case is -- i.e. are there adequate air intakes and exhausts that your fans can move the air they're designed to move? I suspect this is likely a combination of these factors -- re-applying good thermal compound and increasing the CFM will likely resolve it.
  9. The Power Supply Thread

    A 650w would be fine, but 550w is really all you need. Even if you bumped up to a 1070i video card a 550w PSU is still sufficient ... and if you changed to a more modern motherboard with an i7-8700 you'd actually be using LESS power than your i7-2600. [The TDP of an i7-8700 is 65w compared to 95w for the i7-2600; and the newer motherboard would also use less power than the older chipset with the 2600]
  10. Preclear plugin

    There are a variety of tools that work well for testing disks. If you have a Windows box with a spare SATA port or an eSATA or USB3 dock you can easily test any new disks on that. I do this using WD's Data Lifeguard utility (works fine with any manufacturer's drives) ... but you can also use the testing utility from the manufacturer of your disk if you prefer. Note that pre-clear can still be used for this purpose as well if you want to use your UnRAID system as your testing box. But as already noted, pre-clear is NOT needed anymore for the primary purpose it was developed (over a decade ago !!) ... which was to eliminate the down time you would have on a server while it was clearing a new disk. v6 of UnRAID clears the disk automatically BEFORE it is added to the protected array; so the array functionality is not impacted at all by adding new disks to it. When Joe L developed pre-clear, he did include a bunch of activity to test the drives; but the primary reason was to have a new drive zeroed before it was added to the array -- and he coordinated with Tom to include a "pre-clear signature", so UnRAID would know this drive could be quickly added. That functionality still works; but is simply not needed any more. Other than Data Lifeguard, you could use Seagate's SeaTools, SamSung's HUtil, HGST's Drive Fitness Test, or any of a variety of 3rd party tools like HDDScan, DiskCheckup, HD Tune, Crystal Disk, etc.
  11. Do you use spin up groups?

    I suspect that most newer controllers don't have the issue that this resolves; but for those of us who still have older systems it's a very useful feature to eliminate any "stutter" in media playback caused by another drive spinning up on the same controller as the one we're streaming from. It's easy enough to avoid that -- either spin all drives up when streaming media; or don't use the array for anything else when you're streaming ... and the issue this resolves won't ever happen. But unless there's a good reason to eliminate the feature, I'd prefer to see it retained.
  12. Dynamix File Integrity plugin

    As aleady noted, since you didn't have any hash values for your files, there's nothing this plugin or any other checksum utlity can do to help identify corrupted files. You're also not likely get any notification of errors when copying files from the disk. For those files you have backups of, the best way to confirm you have good copies is to do a binary comparison between the files on the UnRAID server and your backups. Any files that don't match, you'll need to manually check to see if you can tell which is the good one -- and then replace the other one. Note that since you don't have checksums for either set of files you have no way of confirming computationally which is actually the correct file. Doing the comparison is easy -- just any any good comparison utility that does a binary compare. I use FolderMatch (not free), but there are several free utilities that can do this as well. [ http://www.foldermatch.com/ ] If there are any mismatches, it's clearly a bit more tedious, but hopefully you won't have any (or at least not many) of those. Since your backups are apparently not local, I'd download a bunch at once onto a PC; then do the comparisons for those; then repeat as needed until you've checked everything. Adding a UPS was the most important improvement you made -- I've told folks for decades this is MANDATORY accessory for EVERY PC ... a power-protected PC that never undergoes an unexpected "yank" of the power cord (which is basically what a power failure is without a UPS) has FAR fewer hardware issues than an unprotected PC. And for a server it's even more important. Hopefully you bought a quality UPS unit -- as a minimum it should have AVR, and ideally you want a true sine wave output. One other thing you can do to give you some idea of whether there's definitely corruption or not is to see if parity is good on the system. Do a parity check and see if there are any sync errors detected. Note that many would suggest doing a non-correcting check, but I see no reason to do that. You WANT parity to be good, so even if UnRAID's assumption that the error is in the parity isn't correct, that's really the only place it can be corrected, since you have no way to knowing which other disk it might be on. If there are sync errors, you'll know for sure you had some corruption, and you need to then do the testing outlined above r.e. file comparisons. Of course if you don't find any, then all you'll know is that the corruption was either on the parity disk (that's good, as it will be resolved by the parity check); or it's on a file you don't have backedup -- in which case there's no way to identify that file. Unfortunately, even if there are NO parity errors, that doesn't absolutely mean you didn't have some corruption, as a write sequence may have been completed immediately before the power loss but before all file operations were completed. But if that's the case, there's likely very few files involved.
  13. ALL drives can fail -- whether they're in warranty or not has little to do with that. If your concern is that you don't want to buy another 8TB drive when the next drive fails, then you could buy a couple larger drives now to upgrade parity; and then defer the purchase of larger data drives until a drive actually fails. In fact, doing that would also give you one (or two if you have dual parity) spare 8TB archive drive(s) (the old parity drives) you could use in case of another drive failure. The disadvantage of doing this is, of course, that you would be limited to the maximum current drive size for your new parity drives -- which would also limit the size of any future data drives; whereas if you wait you could likely move to 14TB or 16TB drives. But better to buy a pair of 12TB units now instead of buying ALL new drives.
  14. Most drives last FAR longer than their warranties. Unless you need additional capacity, I don't see any reason to buy new drives just because your current drives are beyond their warranty period. And it doesn't seem you're adding significant capacity -- if you have a single parity system, 5 12TB vs 6 8TB only adds 8TB of capacity; if it's a dual parity system, then the drive switch only adds 4TB. I'd at least wait until you actually have a drive fail before buying all new drives. You also, of course, don't have to replace them all at once ... although I confess I recently did exactly that with my oldest server -- replacing all of the old 1.5 & 2TB drives with 8TB HGST NAS drives when Newegg had a very nice sale on the HGST units ($210). But I needed the extra capacity. FWIW NONE of the drives I replaced were in warranty ... 'nor had they been for several years. And in two of my other servers, nearly every drive is several years past their warranty.
  15. That's definitely not a drive I'd keep in the array with that SMART data. The 8TB Red is a good choice to replace it.

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